At Barragan, gender lines were blurred, while knitwear brand PH5 built its NYFW debut, and Marissa Webb and Noon By Noor were simple and impressive.”>
Barragn by Tim Teeman
They were designed to not only innovate way, they keyed perfectly into our times, and how gender and sexuality seem eventually more full of options around self-definition and self-presentation. The audience at the showone handsome person, who to the all-too-presuming eye looked like a young manwore a pretty summertime dress.
The staging featured the gender-blurring models standing in clumps facing the massed ranks of us attendees. They were involved in an extended take on the Sisyphean task, interchangeably taking charge of a grey boulder made of foam, which they rolled up and down a little stage, and then up a small slope, before either giving up or rolling it optimistically towards a hole at the front of the stage.
The descriptions of the looks “were in” handedruffle turtle neck body with leather pleated skirt, sleeveless leather trench coat with back pocketsdid not do justice to the good-crazy on display. The beautiful human in the sheer, sheathed black dress demonstrating a lot of skin and with great ear-rings worked the boulder the cheekiest. Another man had a plasticy-looking vest and a pair of black briefs. He was more serious with the boulder.
On other models there was a body-hugging top with black leather skirt, another top made of what looked like small billfolds, and a slash of material across a chest, with luxe chainmail hanging from the neck.
The models outfits came in colourings of all kinds, from utilitarian to bright orange, with some see-through material, and sometimes with a trouser leg missing.
After the reveal, Barragn said his influence was Military, with lacy, see-through clothes, and proving more skin with pockets.
Ruben Gutierrez, his collaborator, and the presents scenic designer, said: We dont think of clothes from a gendered standpoint, and that induces it easy to cast genderless models. We think of it from a neutral standpoint, mixing masculine the documentation and feminine materials. As a generation we have come a long way to accepting non-binary genders. For us, it seems pretty natural.
He and Barragn did not choose the models according to their gender, but their personality and seem: mixing laciness and cargo-utility looks added to the genderfuck.
Gutierrez said the design influences came from the suburbs of his and Barragns native Mexico, as well as punk and 90 s nostalgia. One sweater was inscribed with the lettering of the famous Friends logo, built over to read Lesbian: Gutierrez said he thought fag characters on 90 s TV had been made fun of, and this was his and Barragns way to reinterpret that.
For three months leading up to PH5s New York Fashion Week debut, designer Mijia Zhang slept inside a factory in China owned by the family of her business partner, Wei Lin.
Innovative knitwear, PH5s specialty, is particularly difficult to construct because its computerizedmeaning every sew, pattern, and color requires a different code.